The mountain regions around Marrakech are some of the last standing 'bastions' of traditional 'Berber life'- an authenticity they rightfully use for touristy purposes. And one legitimately wonders whether this authenticity will survive its commercial exploitation...

For many, "Berber" is a new term in Morocco, one which is slowly gaining acceptance and legitimacy, as it battles against the falsely universal term "Arab". For Berbers are not Arabs, and don't want to be assimilated to them.

As one travels through the back country, one is more likely to meet 'pure' Berbers- for they tend to be non-urban dwellers, peoples whose customs and traditions have barely changed in the past centuries.

To understand the Berber/Arab distinction, one must examine the following factors:

1. A Culture, not a Race:
From a theoretical standpoint, "Berberism" refers to a set of histories/customs and traditions rather than a race. Ever since the Arab conquest of Morocco (7th century), people of Berber (that is local) descent have intermingled with people of Arab (that is conqueror/immigrant) descent to form what is largely known as the "North African" people today. As a result of this intermingling, Moroccans don't think of themselves as . divided into ethnic or racial groups. They do, however, recognize the existence of two separate cultures, one of which is undoubtedly heralded as the 'mainstream', 'superior' culture.

It is unclear how or why the 'Arab' culture came to be heralded as this 'mainstream' one. Some claim that the French were very instrumental in building this 'Arab' identity for Morocco, at the expense of the Berber one, hoping that this would unify Morocco under their rule. Other explanations refer to the close relationship between 'Arab' and Islam and the legitimacy immediately derived from kinship with the Prophet (who was undeniably Arab, and whose descendants- "Sharifs"- were people of influence throughout the country).

As a reaction to this 'underdog' classification, the "Berber identity" has been appropriated by hundreds of intellectuals and scholars as a bona fide, and unjustly neglected field of research. Recognizing both the importance and the the under-representation of this central component of Moroccan identity, these intellectuals have rallied the help of many political figures interested in leveraging this idea of 'minority' persecution for the Berber community. Thus was born the "Berber question" (La question berbere).

So while this "Berber question" is without doubt a difficult and controversial one, it is not principally a racial one.

2. Berbers and Tourists

While in principle no Moroccan should spontaneously unveil his Arab or Berber blood, there is a small minority which does. These 'proud to be Berbers' use their 'lack of Arabicity' as a means to put tourists at ease and assure them of their good intentions. " Berber guides are honest", "you are good tourists, not Arab tourists" (notice the deprecating tone).

My personal experience (take it for what it is worth) is much more ambiguous than these Berber guides would like you to think. There are friendly Berber guides, just as there are friendly 'Arab' guides (mind you, these Arabs probably have some Berber blood in them, and vice versa). And there are aggressive Berber guides just as there are aggressive Arab ones.

3. The Berber Language

The Moroccan language scene is characterized by 'pluri-lingualism'- this is such a major feature of the Moroccan identity that you will not meet one Moroccan historian, scholar, or intellectual who is not willing to deliver a 30 minute lecture on the topic. Habitually, the languages presented as "Moroccan languages" are:
-Modern classical Arabic (Fus-ha)
Moroccan Arabic (Derija)
-French
Berber (which in turn is divided into the three main dialects spoken in Northern Morocco, the Atlas and the South)

The curious aspect about the Berber language' is that it survives in spite of its 'in-existence' at the official level. Berber is not taught in school, it is not used in politics, and it doesn't really have a written form. And yet, if you go deep enough into the back country, odds are that you will meet people who don't speak a word of Classical or Moroccan Arabic.

As the "question berbere" takes on momentum, measures to introduce its teaching in schools, and to establish a solid alphabet and written tradition are increasing. Currently, most scholars involved in this endeavor are transcribing the rich oral heritage of Berber cultures into written testimonies.

Overall, 'Berberism' is a complex issue, often prone to exaggerations and easy politics. However, the hidden wealth of these cultures and traditions are slowly being unveiled to Arabs and Westerners alike, promising a whole new exciting field of inquiry and discovery!