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Ziz valley
Caravane Route
Sijilmassa
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The Desert

Leo notes

Caravan notes

Cristel notes


Searching for history

    Travel is bound to have its disappointments. One reads, prepares, psychologically enhances the sights to be seen, the people to be met, the foods to be tasted. Without the lure of such travel rewards, one would probably not put up with the long travel hours, the same clothes worn over and over again, the dreadful smells...

Sijilmassa was my fantasy, the reason I traveled so far South- my temptation in this country of
desert, hot days, freezing nights                    The gate to Rissani

and (sometimes!!) harassing inhabitants .

Sijilmassa.... the heart of the Caravan trade, the center of Gold transactions, the once glorious city. A rival to Marrakech, Fes and Timbuctou. With such a reputation,
even its ruins had to be worth a look.

I decided to ignore all warnings (most guidebooks did not even mention the place), and dragged my two willing travel companions to the scene of the crime. And crime it was. Nothing, nothing and more nothing. Not an even a crumbling wall to be wondered at- only a pile of mud and sand- dryness with a few emerging telephone poles.




The Souk in Rissani- not a 'Sijilmassa Souvenir
                        Shop' in sight


And one cannot help but wonder. How can a town like Rissani, how can a country like Morocco sit atop such a gold mine of past, history, knowledge, evidence of times past and let it degenerate into a garbage dump?

Later, I learned from a knowledgeable Spanish man living in Morocco that there had once been an American- Moroccan dig sponsored in the region, but that it had been short lived and without great results. There also once was a Sijilmassa museum in Rissani, but it sank into legend. as did the city before it. Now it's just a shut door and an empty room.

Any prospective Fulbrights?