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Today,
Tetouan is a beach resort, attracting vacationers of all sorts, Moroccans
and foreigners alike. Martil, Tetouan's closest port and once den of ruthless
Moroccan corsairs is now one endless stretch of white sand, and a boardwalk,
replete with shop stalls, vacation homes and parasols. In the winter months,
the town has a bit of a ghostly feel, but one can still sense the crowds
it hosted last summer and the hordes it is preparing for.
Jon and I visited Martil and its upscale neighbor "Cabo Negro"
(the name being yet

another
remnant of the Spanish presence in Northern Morocco) in May-- just as
the weather was warming up, but not tourist temperature yet. My "English
Channel" blood could not resist a swim in the Mediterranean's cool
waters.
Up
the coast, a few miles North of Tetouan, the port of Mdiq seems to have
retained a bit more of its past: an active fishing community with boats
of all sizes and repairmen to keep the fleet alive.
The
small Church, neighboring a Marabout (Muslim saint's tomb) charmingly
reminds us of the many cultures and religions that roamed these lands.
The local people's eagerness to switch from Moroccan to Spanish, then
to French is indicative of over 5 centuries of close kinship- though most
is owed to the 50 years of French and Spanish protectorate in these lands
( 1912 to 1956).
As we walked along the beaches, snuck into ports and flashed our cameras
at busy fishermen, we couldn't help wondering at the odd effects of time,
which turns a mighty, threatening coast into a pleasure cove, where all
live in relative peace. An unexpected heritage for corsairs to leave behind!
Fisherman
in Mdiq
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The
Church in Mdiq
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